If I thought Day 1 was a scorcher, I had no idea what was coming up next.
I woke up at what I thought was an early time, packed my things and headed down the backside of the hill I slept on top of, listening to Coffee Break Spanish and becoming utterly lost by episode 5 as my mind drifted off, marvelling at the scenery. My walk took me through a lush forest, over a dam, and past an old church with a water tap. Then, the climbing began.
What felt like a ski hill would be my torment for the next hour as I slowly crawled up the side of a goat pasture, shaded by trees but still dripping with sweat. Geez, I was not ready for this. But of course, I persevered and wound my way through the hill tops and back down the far side to reach the town of Bera for lunch.
I cracked open my vegan meats and cheeses, which looked horrible with their greasy oils coming out, but I threw them in a fresh baguette and was happy for the calories and salts. I ate a grapefruit, washed my hands, and found a café to rest at. It was about 1pm and I knew it was the hottest time of the day, so I should sit and rest up, right? I had a coffee, a coca-cola, more croissants, and I charged my devices knowing that I would probably be sleeping outside again. When I finally left, I did not feel great and just the elevation change to reach the edge of town was enough for me to think twice about continuing that day.
I distinctly remember a moment, where I grabbed my last water before leaving town and I was so worried if I’d make it. And foolishly(?), I walked forward.
I climbed, and climbed, and climbed. Maybe not as much as you’re picturing, but it felt like a lot. And the 40 degree summer heat was like a knife in my chest, my body dripping with sweat walking up this old footpath. It became far too much at one point, but I wanted to press on, right until I reached a fork and looked left to follow the marker, and… Sun. So much sun. It was a bare, wide open hillside with 100% fewer trees, capturing the entirety of the Spanish sun.
I collapsed. I couldn’t do it. Nothing could make me go up that trail at that moment. I sat down on the side of the trail and felt so defeated. I couldn’t fathom that people did this for fun. I cracked open my phone and did some Duolingo and such, waiting for the temps to go down and for my body to be ready for another go. I even exchanged some voice memos and felt much much better after learning that PCT hikers in America would be taking a zero on a day as hot as this, which really made me feel better!
Eventually, I mustered up the strength to power on and slogged my way up to the top of the hill. Woo hoo!! Some extra shade and abandoned, decrepit buildings were waiting for me, and then a long, long walk (of course). The view was super cool, with big rolling hills and the peak of the largest mountain nearby in sight. I even passed a herd of sheep that were huddled beneath the tiniest sliver of shade in their pasture, which was both hilarious and kinda sad. Too bad I didn’t bring a tent big enough for everyone!
My feet, body and mind were getting exhausted, and I sat to take a long break right on a fire ants nest, and I was met with an absolutely horrible realisation as my backside started to burn under my shirt. Guess I’m not sleeping here!
A few km’s later, I finally made it to the col, but not in time for a beer or a cold drink at the bar, but fresh water flowed freely from the tap. I set up my tent, said hello to my fellow campers, watched the sun set, and promptly crashed. Another day would be coming soon 🙂
