My write-up of Day 1 is very long because it felt like so much happened! If I can remember the details from the rest of the days, I will try to be as descriptive as this one 🙂
Today’s Lesson: always avoid walking when you can. I made a big mistake on my first day, walking all over town for groceries and a sim card, then taking a bus only halfway to the starting point and walking the rest. I was incredibly surprised at how quickly the heat overtook me as I came back into town, and it nearly killed me as soon as I had to start walking upwards, which felt like it was STRAIGHT up.
But let me rewind a bit and explain to you exactly how this day went down. It all started the night before in a house on the outskirts of Toulouse. My friend Connor and his (now fiancée!) Phébé invited me to stay before I started this trek. We stayed up way too late with their two friends that came over for dinner (which lasts for about 7 hours in France, plus all the time spent singing Oasis tunes in the pool), and I very foolishly booked an early, early train ride out of town.
Once Connor dropped me off at the train station, it was “smooth” sailing. I tried to read and tried to sleep, but between watching the sunrise and the nerves of my adventure, I got little shut eye that morning.
The craziest thing about train stations in France has to be the lack of washrooms. I walked for what felt like 15 minutes, just to find a washroom that demanded cash to use. Tabernak!! So I took my time but didn’t have the relaxing experience I needed while waiting for my transfer in Bordeaux. I stopped at the cafe for espresso and a pain au chocolat, grabbed more snacks, and got on the next leg.
About 30 minutes outside of Hendaye, my destination, I realized that my phone was nearly dead. And an important thing about wilderness backpacking is that they don’t put a lot of chargers in the woods. I scrambled with my cables, but it made little difference. Too many Duolingo lessons and time spent researching backcountry meal recipes had taken their toll on my devices.
Then, I reached the border of Spain! I got off the train, asked for some help on how to cross the river to enter the next country, and was told to buy a ticket because the train was leaving!! I hurriedly exchanged my hard earned dollars to save 20 minutes of walking, and made it on the teensy little tram that hugged the bridge. Yo estuve en Espana!!
I quickly left the crowds, and found myself on the main drag through Irun. I instantly found more food, and a vegan-friendly health food grocer! An awesome bit of luck. I stocked up on fake meats and cheeses, TVP, and a bag of vegan egg powder (which became very important). I tried to get a sim card, but one store told me to go to the other, and that store had a huge lineup. Maybe later.
This is when the day began to drag on. I got on the city bus and headed North to the official start point, but there was no route that went the whole way. But I have feet! So I walked by the beach, up a hill, and along a narrow road up and up to the Cabo Higer lighthouse and campground. I really should have recognized how tired I was and stayed at that campground that night, but I was much too nervous about taking any extra days to finish the trail, and I was very excited to get started.
The beginning of the trail is not very well documented. There were some signs, but nothing like the PCT Southern Terminus in California, with it’s monuments and Park Rangers checking to see if you’re ready for the wilderness. So I clambered down some dirt trails and cliffs, and made it to the edge of the ocean. I was mostly alone, I stripped down to my knickers, and set my phone up for a video.
Pretty funny eh?  That rock was sooooo slippery! I was lucky to make it out alive, but the saltwater was nice and refreshing. I cleaned up, got my photo taken against the Atlantic Ocean backdrop, and started the trail!
Unfortunately, that saltwater was now drying up on my skin in the hot sun, and the dip really sucked my energy. Not a good start. I walked over to the beach and rinsed off at one of their showers, then got lost and turned around. Back on the route, I started googling vegan food to eat and wasn’t finding much. It was really hot now, and I was in rough shape. I made my way back to where I first entered the city of Irun, and looked and looked for the one ethnic restaurant I could find on Google Maps. I stepped into a store and found an extremely helpful, lovely, non-english speaking, Moroccan, family-run restaurant. I plugged in my chargers, took off my bag, and had a truly wonderful meal, complete with Moroccan tea (which I’m told is much better than Egyptian tea!)
I ate everything until my plates were clean and headed back out with a full belly. It was an easy walk through town, and the long shadows cast by buildings and trees were very welcome. I headed south, and finally reached what could be called “a hill”. I started up it, and almost instantly realised that it was the steepest terrain I had experienced all summer. “What the hell did I get myself into?” I thought to myself. Every step was soul crushing with my over-weighted backpack, and it was only hour 3 on my first day?? I had finally gotten an esim card to work over dinner, so I called my partner and complained about how difficult this was already. She talked me off a bit of a ledge, and I mustered the resolve to continue on.
As I climbed, I passed new plants, a few hikers, a herd of cows blocking the path, and some great views of the valley below. I pushed myself past the designated campsite just to say I hit the top of the hill, and then searched for a place to pitch my tent between the cow patties. Camping up here was a little spooky for me, as I’ve rarely ever camped by myself before (despite the fact I could see cars in a parking lot from here 臘).
So, I crawled under my sleeping bag as it was too hot to be in it, and slowly nodded off to the sounds of cowbells and wind blowing through the trees. Day one was complete!
